110 Volt Hot Tub or 220 Volt Hot Tub?
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What can a 110 volt hot tub offer that a 220 volt can’t?
If you are only just starting your portable hot tub shopping, or are all ready to purchase, there is one consideration that is very important when it comes to enjoying your spa. This important element is whether you will purchase a tub that runs on 110 volts or 220 volts. There is a lot of controversy about which voltage is better or which offers a superior hot tub experience. This sort of choice - concerning how much electricity your hot tub will draw at a time - seems secondary to choices like what shape, what color or what sort of features you want. The truth is, that the kind of voltage your spa uses can factor into its overall cost, installation time, hot tub heater, feature performance and your peace of mind!
Before you can make an informed decision about what voltage you need for your hot tub, you need to understand the differences between 110 volt and 220 volt and how they affect your hot tub. There are also a lot of myths about how they impact energy bills and heat retention that need to be addressed as well!
Which Voltage Do You Need?
Often salespeople will use the differences between 110 volt and 220 volt hot tubs and skew them in order to sell more hot tubs. Before you buy your hot tub, it's best to take off the rose-tinted glasses and be able to assess for yourself which voltage will work for your specific needs. Many of the newer spas are being manufactured to run of 110 volts, whereas some of the more traditional, larger spas stick to 220 volts.
The Voltage Test
So, do you need to worry about the differences between these two voltages? Here's six quick questions that should help you decide.
Answer "yes" or "no" to the following:
- I live in a colder climate (Canada, Maine, Wisconsin, etc)
- I intend to use my portable hot tub in 20 degree or lower temperatures
- I intend to have hot tub parties in the winter, where friends will be in and out of the hut tub over a 4-5 hour period.
If you answered YES to any of these statements, then you *do* need to think about voltage.
Now, answer "yes" or "no" to this next set of questions:
- I live in a milder climate (Virginia, the Carolinas, California, Texas, etc)
- I intend to use my spa mostly in warmer weather or only just below freezing temperatures
- Most of my hot tub soaks will be either under or around 1-2 hours long.
If you answered YES to any of these statements, then 220 voltage is not as serious of a consideration for you. A 110 volt hot tub should suit you just fine.
What parts of you spa will be affected by the amount of voltage it uses?
Hot tub Heater - the amount of energy your hot tub draws with affect how quickly your hot tub warms up or cools off.
Hot Tub Jets - your jets will also be affected because for some hot tubs to run the heater, the jets need to be turned off.
Installation Time and Cost - depending on your existing electrical set-up, you might end up paying extra for permits, inspections and electrician costs.
110 Volt and 220 Volt Hot Tub Myth:
"220 volt portable hot tubs will save you money on energy bills!"
The Truth: Quite the contrary - 220 volts will not save you money.
The reasoning behind the 220 volt theory is this: 220 volts allows your heater to draw more energy and will heat up your hot tub twice and quickly, so in the end, you have it running half the time of a 110 volt hot tub and you save money.
Why Is This So?: Your electric meters measure your energy use in watts as opposed to volts. The higher voltage means that more energy (watts) can move through the wires to your hot tub at a faster rate. With a 220 volt spa, you will still use the same amount of watts that you would running a 110 volt hot tub for twice as long. The same amount of watts goes to your tub, but it just takes longer.
The scenario is comparable to filling up your car at the gas station using a quicker pump versus a slower one. In the end, you still get the same amount of gasoline, though one might take longer than the other-and the gas station only charges for the amount of gas, not how long it took to pump it.
The Ease of 110 Volts
110 volt hot tubs are the easiest to install (almost no installation at all) and work into your home's existing electrical set up. Most households in the US have standard outlets in their homes which run on 110 volts, allowing your spa to be immediately installed. You can start running your spa as soon as you have it set up. Depending on the age of your home, you may have outdoor sockets, which makes plugging feeding electricity to your portable hot tub very easy. Installing a 220 volt outlet will require an electrician, not to mention permits and inspections depending on your county's policies.
110 volts can still power hot tub heaters, jets, lights and other features without any problems. The only concern is if you enjoy using your spa for more than an hour or two when the temperature dips down below 32 degrees. With the cover on your 110 volt hot tub, you can get the temperature up to 104 degrees Fahrenheit, but over a couple of hours in frigid temperatures, the temperature will slowly drop. Usually it drops 2 degrees each hour the cover is off-so after about 3 hours of continuous use in below freezing temperatures, the water will only be about body temperature. If the jets are on high, this cool off might happen more quickly. This usually does not present a problem with average use (soaks for 1-2 hours), but if you have parties on very cold nights where everyone wants to be in and out of the hot tub over a 5 hour period, you might find that the water is lukewarm by the end of the night.
The Power of 220 Volts
220 volt hot tubs are able to keep water warmer in sub-zero temperatures. This quicker flow of voltage is used for appliances and other larger machines that need a higher draw of energy. While 220 volt outlets are usually accessible in areas like your kitchen, they may not be available through an outdoor outlet. If this is the case, then you will need to check with your local permit office and see what the requirements and permit prices are. Every county has a different policy about what requires a permit and what does not - often any new electrical line requires one and may also require an inspector to check the work after the new outlet is in place.
It is usually recommended that you hire an electrician to lay the new wiring for the 220 volt outlet and hook it up to the source of current, simply because one misstep for a Do-It-Yourself-er can result in a trip to the hospital. As stated before, a 220 volt hot tub will not save you money on your energy bills, but it will keep your hot tub warmer if you live in a cold climate and want to use your hot tub even if the temperature is well below freezing. Unfortunately, it will often cost some additional money and time to install if you don't already have a 220 volt outlet handy.
Jets and Heater Running Simultaneously
One of the main reasons why 110 volt hot tubs do not stay as warm as 220 volt ones during the coldest days of winter is because of the way that the power shifts from heater to jets. Many 110 volt hot tubs will only be able to run the heater or the jets at full power. This means that when you turn the jets on full blast in the middle of winter, the heating element temporarily switches off so that the majority of the electricity can power the massaging jets. Lower jet speeds do not create this problem. The 220 volt hot tub can draw energy quicker and is able to keep the heater running while the jets are on high. Some hot tubs like those made by DreamMaker are able to run the heater and jets simultaneously, so that goes to show that the heater/jet dilemma does not hold true for every 110 volt hot tub.
Another energy-saving design that allows 110 volt hot tub to retain heat is heat recycling. The heat created by the jet motor is contained within the insulated walls of the spa to keep the spa toasty. This sort of environmentally clever design is used by manufacturers like DreamMaker, who include this recycled heat approach in all of their 110 volt hot tubs. Because of this, DreamMaker's 110 volt hot tubs are prevalent throughout even the coldest regions of Canada.
Perfect Compromises?
There are a few solutions to having the ease of a 110 volt hot tub and the mid-winter warmth of a 220 volt hot tub. Some manufacturers have tried to keep hot tub users toasty even in the coldest parts of the country.
Manufacturer Improvements to Look for While Shopping
- Look for 110 Volts that can run jets AND heater at the same time. Some 110 volt hot tubs allow for the jets and the heater to be run at the same time, completely eliminating the main difference in 110 volt and 220 volt performance. At this point, DreamMaker is one of the only 110v hot tub manufacturers that offers this benefit to their customers. Hopefully in the future other hot tub brands will try to get the most out of their 110 volt performance to keep up with the standard that DreamMaker has set. For now, be aware of whether the spa you are looking at can use jets and heater at the same time. (Check out my-hot-tub-and-spa.com for more information about DreamMaker spas.)
- Ask whether the spa you are looking at uses recycled heat. Recycled heat from the jet motor is one way to make sure that your hot tub will be nice and hot whenever you need it to be. Though switching to 220 volts may not lower your energy bills, using a hot tub that recycles heat will! The extra warmth means that you don't have to crank up your heater quite as hot.
Customer Tips and Tricks
- Keep it constant. If you keep your hot tub at a constant temperature during winter save energy in the long run as opposed to the warming up and cooling down. A constant, warm temp is better in the long run and will be reflected on your electric bills.
- Jets off in severe cold of winter. When you aren't using your hot tub, make sure that your jets are turned off. Running jets can expend energy when you're not in the spa, and when you are taking a soak, jets can cause the water to cool down faster. If you want a good hydrotherapy massage, it is best to soak in still hot water, then run the jets for the last part of your hot tub soak. This way, you can enjoy the warmth without having the jets rob all the heat too early on. You don't want to spend your hour in lukewarm water!
- Floating Thermal Blanket. Hot water rises, so as your 110 volt hot tub warms up, the hottest water will float at the top. A good investment for mid-winter spa use is a floating thermal blanket. This will keep heat from escaping from the water's surface. Together with a snug-fitting cover, a thermal blanket can really keep your tub toasty.
- Wind breaks around hot tub. When installing your hot tub, it may be a good idea to consider placing it near a wall or sheltered area in your yard. Having wind breaks around your tub will keep chilly air from blowing away the warmth of your hot tub. Some spa owners make their own wind breaks for privacy as was as warmth.
- Hydro jets better than air induction jets. Hot tubs that use water induction as opposed to air induction are more likely to stay warm. When jets expel air, the water temperature can drop more quickly than it would it the jets were blowing water. The difference between air and water jets is very slight, but in the winter time, water jets will keep the water warm for a longer period of time. Buyer Beware: air induction jets can sometimes be a sign of a cheap hot tub.
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You are correct and thanks for the tip. I haven't done this myself, but would assume your approach would require a fairly detailed understanding of the internal electronics of the hot tub and likely an electrician to accomplish this task. For the average user who wants to plug it in and go, a separate line might be somewhat overwhelming to accomplish.
I have a Hot Springs spa that holds about 385 gallons. I chose 220 instead of 110 because people have said that when they change out their water it could take as long as a day or day and a half to get to the set temperature. With 220 I can change out my water mid afternoon and it's ready to go by evening. Takes about 5 hours or so.
A very good and informative hub! I'm sure a lot of people will find this hub interesting!
One option is to have a gas heater installed with your 110v hot tub. I paid $1500 extra for a propane heater for use with my Softub. When the tub is drained it only needs to run for 4 hours to heat it up in the winter months. It doesn't always need to be used so it's perfect for supplementing a heat during a hot tub party or a realy cold winter night. Since the heater is propane and not natural gas, it can be moved anywhere in the yard along with the hot tub, or a contracter to install it.
i love this this is god sent
I just bought a spa that is said to run of 110 how hard is it to set it up to run 220. I have 220 already on the wall next to the spa
Joseph:
Every spa is made different. Some can be converted to run off of a 220V line - some cannot. Contact the manufacturer for the spa you bought and speak with their tech support. If it can only be run on 110V - you may need to talk to an electrician to change the 220V line into a 110V outlet.
Hope this helps!
Dan Buglio
So.....Bottom line is 220V won't use anymore electricity than a 110V right?? Did I read that statement right? No matter the voltage, it's the wattage used that determines the cost and the difference is the time in which it takes to heat the tub?
Based on some notes from an engineer friend of mine, both 110 volt and 220 volt draw the same amount of watts. Since you are charged for your watts per hour use, the energy bills will be the same. The amperage for a 220 volt outlet is less than that of a 110 volt one, but the electric company only charges you for the wattage.
If you want to get technical:
Watts = amps x volts
So, say your average 220v outlet draws 15 amps and your average 110v outlet draws 30 amps.
220 volts x 15 amps = 3,300 watts
110 volts x 30 amps = 3,300 watts
As they always say, "it's the same difference."
What can I expect to pay an electrician to set-up 220?
I have a 110 system and was wondering if anyone knows of a control panel that runs both the heater while using the jets. I have been running into the problem of using the tub longer than a couple of hours and it seems to cool down. I have to shut off the jets and it takes some time later to warm up.
Sean: Unfortunately that is more a limitation on the 110V instead of the control panel. It all depends on how the manufacturer designed the spa. Often there's just not enough electricity to run the pump and the heater at the same time. That's why the DreamMakerSpas lineup is so attractive. Because they heat the water using friction and a heat recovery process instead of a traditional heating element, you can heat the water and run the pumps at the same time. All with a 110V hookup. Nice... http://www.My-Hot-Tub-And-Spa.com for more details.
why do yo say its best to keep a constant temperature in the winter ? The rate of energy loss is proportional to temperature. Thus a hotter tub will dissipate its heat faster than when it is cooler. Thus if you keep it hot, you are losing heat always at the higher rate. If you let it cool, the time when it is cooler will lose less heat and so will use less energy to get it back to temperature than the energy needed to keep it high.
I live in Canada and this year I just want to run the tub without heating it in the colder months. Should i be cocerned about it freezing at all ?
Steven,
As long as you follow recommended draining and winterizing procedures to get all water out - the tub should be fine. However, if you leave any water in the plumbing lines - it will freeze and when the water turns to ice and expands - it will crack the plumbing.
Just make sure you follow your manufacturers recommendation for completely draining the tub.
I want to buy Hot Tub and for me most important the power of the rump than temperature of the water.
If I need more powerfull jets, do I need to buy Hot Tub with 110V or 220V? I couldn't find this information in discussion about 110V or 220V for Hot Tub ?
Thank you.
Leo, Miami, FL
Leo - both 110V and 220V tubs can have powerful jets. What you will find is that on a 110V spa, there will be fewer jets to maintain adequate pressure per jet.
If you want maximum pressure with a ton of jets, nothing beats 220V spas. In a 220V there is lots of electricity to power a large pump or sometimes two.
The big catch is jet positioning and the number of people using the tub frequently. Why get an 8' by 8' tub with 78 jets for 1-2 people? Most of the jets go unused and your electrical costs go way up.
110V spas can be perfectly fine. In either case - make sure that you evaluate the location of the jets where you will most likely be sitting to see if they will hit whatever body parts you need massaged.
In the end, do your homework.
For 110V spas, I recommend the DreamMaker Spas at http://www.my-hot-tub-and-spa.com.
What is the monthly cost of keeping a hot tub in milder (california( climates?
Tough question. Depends a LOT on usage and energy costs for your local utility companies. The Dream Maker Spas available at the post above run about $25-$30 a month. Sometimes less depending on usage habits and climate. DreamMaker also introduced a new Hybrid spa model which uses two different technologies to heat the water.
This makes them the first ever hybrid tub and fully in compliance with California green living recommendations.
Hope this helps.
I have had hot tubs for 27 years - and I STILL love getting into mine each time with the same enthusiasm as the first time. I live in snow country and have always had a 220 system. Winter has always been my favorite time for tubbing and heating it has never been a problem. Even with the meteoric rise in electric rates, it still only costs me about $40-$50 a month to heat. MUCH cheaper than replacement costs if a bad drain job causes freeze ups anywhere along the system. My tub holds 350 gallons.
As for Steven in Canada - are you asking if you can keep the tub running without heating the water during the winter? The answer is NO. I live relatively close to the Canadian border and I had not turned up the heat on the base heating unit. I had a skim of ice on it New Years Eve morning! YIPES. I usually keep the water at about 50 degrees and that keeps things flowing in the deep below zero temps. Then when I know I am going in, I turn up the remote thermostat to the comfy level. I DO use a thermal blanket on top of the water underneath the hot tub cover. Works great!
great hub - thanks for the detailed voltage info.
i just bought a used hot tub and its ran off a 110v and takes forever to heat up is there a way to convert it to a 220v and if so how much does it cost???
April, First off a 110v spa will take longer to heat up, but once at temperature should stay there without too much difficulty. The goal should be to fill it, let it heat up then leave it on. The only time it should be a challenge is if you let the temperature drop way down by shutting it off or leaving the cover off too long during really cold weather.
As for conversion - that would require upgrading MOST of the components. It could be quite a job and expense to upgrade all the internal components to work with 220v. Heater, pump, power supply, etc.
Some spas are built as convertible from 110v to 220v. But it all really depends on the manufacturer. I would suggest you contact the company that made your spa and determine IF there is an upgrade path to a 220v configuration.
I have a 3 season porch with aluminum framed glass windows throughout. A 110V tub would fit through the doorways and not completely take up the space - which is nice. I live in Madison, WI.
Could I expect adequate performance from a 110v system considering it's in a semi-enclosed area? It would really be 1-2 people for the most part, occasionally 3-4 people. I would assume that I would want to open the windows in the winter to prevent excessive condensation....Although the porch shares a roof with the rest of the house - there is not an air path into the attic. Would I need to worry about excessive moisture in the attic at all?
Madison,
Yes, a 110V spa would be fine in a space like that. Maintaining temperatures shouldn't be an issue. Yes, you would need some ventilation to prevent too much condensation. You might be able to install a bathroom fan to pull some moisture out. And as long as there is no air path to the attic - moisture shouldn't be a problem in the attic. I do like the DreamMaker Spas for sale at http://www.My-Hot-Tub-And-Spa.com. DreamMaker Spas sells a couple thousand tubs a year in Canada, so temperatures won't be an issue.
Hope this helps.
Dan
(disclaimer - I own http://www.my-hot-tub-and-spa.com)
I am considering making my first purchase of a hot tub. I had no idea there are so many more things to consider then the color of the one i wanted. Reading some of these posts have provided some valuable information to consider. I am in the process of taking down a screened in porch/roof and making it just into a covered patio with a roof. I assume perhaps half side walls might be worth putting up for the wind aspect which i was thinking about for the privacy factor. What type of electrical box will I need. I was told i need to upgrade to a 180. What are the price diffrences from the 110v to 220v. How much time do you have to invest daily or weekly to maintain the spa?
Dan,
Thanks for the article. I just bought a gazebo in expectation of purchasing a hot tub. I want to put the hot tub in my backyard and have a 110v outlet available. Do I need to install anything else electrically if I get a hot tub that runs off of 110? One thing that is deterring me from getting a 220v hot tub is having to pay an electrician to change the outlet.
Thanks,
Pete
Salem. Oregon
Pete:
The only thing to double check is to see how many other electrical appliances or items are on the same circuit. A 110V hot tub can run on a standard outlet, but it's going to take 10-13 amps of a 15 amp breaker. So if you have another high power consumption device on the same breaker - it won't work for you. If you have a dedicated breaker - then you should be fine.
Hope this helps. When you are ready to check out 110V spas, see http://www.My-Hot-Tub-and-Spa.com.
I am looking to purchase a 110 v spa. I live in a climate where the temps dip to -18 F which would be exactly the time i want to be in the spa for a couple of hours. Is the 110 up to the task and what hinds can you give me to keep it as hot as possible?
The main thing to consider is that ANY spa in -18 F temperature will lose heat when the cover is off. Most 110V spas will be fine for normal usage even in those cold temperatures. However - because they cannot heat the water as quickly as a 220V spa, they will tend to lose heat faster than they can heat it up. You will be fighting a losing battle if you have the cover off for more than 2 hours in a row.
If you plan on Hot Tub parties where the cover will be off for many hours in those sub-freezing temperatures, a 220V spa will be better equipped for the job.
Do you no anything about Free Flow Spas
I don't have personal experience with the Free Flow line of spas, but from what I can see, the spas look pretty nice. Still, I can't say either way about durability, customer support or anything because I have not dealt with them personally.
omg this is awesome
Dan,
Fantastic article, very informative. As an electrician, I recommend having a licensed, insured professional install a dedicated 220V circuit, even if you’re on the fence about 110 VS 220. Unless the cost is too prohibitive a 220V dedicated circuit will allow you to upgrade or add on in the future if desired.
Tuscon Electric, Thanks for chiming in. It's great to have an electrician enter the discussion! I appreciate your comments!
I am looking into purchasing a hot tub - for ease of installation, which voltage to look for 110 or 220 as we live in South Florida. I'd like to use it for cooler water in the summer and warmer in the winter (Florida winter doesn't usually get below 40 degrees).
Great site. Concise information.
WebDan65,
Need your thoughts on what 110 Spa I should be looking at. Here are some requirements I have:
1. 110 Outdoor patio Spa
2. Can a 110 heat up enough water for two people, or should my wife and I focus on a single size and spa alone for better heat and jets? We are both 6ft!
3. Temp most often would be 102/3, jets needed for hydrotherapy.
4. Are there distributors of any product you may recommend in the 91320 zip code?
Thanks for your insight. I used to own a Sundance Capri (2200 volt), and am now looking for 110's.
You can email me at markpikus@gmail.com with specific questions or your post.
Mark:
This will obviously be biased. Truth is, there are a number of decent 110V spas on the market. None of them will have any problem heating the water up to typical 104 degree hot tubbing temps. The main limitations with 110V spas is that due to power availability, you can only run a limited size pump and therefore can't have a 50-80 jet tub running on 100V. You simply don't have enough juice.
The line I sell and recommend is called DreamMaker Spas and they are 110V and we offer several models. All the details are at: http://www.My-Hot-Tub-And-Spa.com. Since I am a dealer, not the manufacturer, you would have to contact DreamMakerSpas.com to find out if they have a dealer near you that you can check out a spa in person.
But to answer your points. Yes, they can heat enough water for as many people as you can fit in the tub. The number of jets and placement can all be seen on our site for appropriate hydrotherapy.
Hope this helps. Our phone number is on our site if you have any questions at all.
Dan, Thanks for having me :)
Keep up the fantastic job of keeping folks informed!
Fantastic Hub, you have a superb skill for sharing your evidently thorough knowledge of spas.
I have a Canadian Hot Tub. It's a barrel type, vinyl lined. 220.
I love it because it's deep, BUT, I am finding it a little costly to run in the winter. I am in Midwestern Ontario.
Is it better to leave it on Freeze Protect (constant water moving), or to have it cycle every 10 minutes and increase the temperature (I cycled it every 10 minutes last night and lost 10 degrees F over 8 hours). The temp gage is not digital, it's a knob.
What is cheaper? Less cycling, but upping the heater? Or Cycle all the time and lower the heater??
I have insulated all the lines on the outside. . . all the hoses are external. I even wrapped the outside in bubble wrap insulation.
I am going to put a tarp on my 400 dollar cover, and I have a solar blanket.
I cannot live without the hot tub. :C But I am going to die paying the hydro bills.
Awesome hub. Finally got my tub working correctly on 110v. It is a dual voltage model and due to the extremely long time it takes to get to temperature on 110v I would like to convert it to 220v.
I have a neighbor who is a licensed electrician doing the wiring for the panel (4 wire #8awg on a 40amp GFCI).
Looking at the schematic on page number 9 of the owner's manual, is it really just as simple as removing the jumper and moving the position of one dip switch?
http://www.freeflowspas.com/downloads/P ... 202010.pdf
Is there any other procedure required for restarting it after the conversion?
Thanks
@stinktip
Each manufacturer handles convertible voltage spas differently. If the instructions indicate that is all there is to it, then that's probably right. I used to sell Strong Spas which also sold a convertible spa and it was a simple jumper change on that too.
When in doubt - contact FreeFlow directly.
Best of luck!
Dan
Has anyone hooked there tub up to on outdoor wood boiler? I have an oversized boiler, and would like to know how it works, is the performance the same and what not.
Did he mention that he likes the DreamMaker???
Thanks for the article. I've been browsing the google and I spotted your article.
It's a great help on me. Keep on posting for more. Thanks again.
I am looking at a Tuff Spa TT200 that is convertible to 220. The 110 outlet that has an outside outlet is NOT on a dedicated circuit. It will cost me about $200 to run a 110 dedicated circuit and about $375 to have hardwire a 40 amp 220 circuit because it needs to be hardwired with a GFI.
I live at 8500 feet in Colorado and want to run this tub in the winter.
I cannot get a clear idea of what it will cost to run this on a monthly basis and my electrician says the cost to run the tub on 220 will be MORE than running it on 110, because I will be running the jets more. I think this makes sense, but I am still on the fence about which option I should choose.
I would love to know if anyone has any information on Tuff Spas, as there are no reviews out there in cyberland, and I am still curious about the 110/220 debate.
Thanks so much for this article.
Very informative.
Im looking at an older hot springs tub thats 220 want to convert it to 110 is it posible to do?
For the cost of replacing the various parts of the tub to make it 110V compliant - you could hire an electrician to run the 220V line. Plus, the 110V tub would not be as capable as a 220V tub. Conversion would likely require a lot although I've never done it. Check with either a spa technician, with Hot Springs directly or an electrician.
Hot tub hooked up to 120 volt. It is maintaining the heat but once it cools down it won't rise the temperature back up. Is the 120 just not powerful enough? How do we check if that is the issue or if it is a heater issue? Water is flowing fine. We bled the lines. Any suggestions?
Two things to check. 1. Put the cover back on. 2. Turn the air valves off so the bubbles are not on. The cover being off and the bubbles on will often create enough heat loss that you can't get the tub back up to the full 104 degree "hot tub" temperature.
A 120V spa should be fine and work in all climates. It just depends on use. Typical use is 30-45 minutes. If you are having a hot tub party and the cover is off and the jets are on for hours and hours - yes, it will eventually lose enough heat that you may not be pleased. For normal use of 30-45 minutes then covering it back up - the spa should be perfectly fine. Hope that helps.
In regards to previous post below. This is NOT taking into account that it takes 3 times (or more) as long to heat up. So with that in mind if it takes 5 hours to heat up with 220volts then 5 hours times 3,300 watts per hour is 16,500 watts you will be charged for. 110 volts takes 15 hours to heat up(slower heating plus heat loss while heating). So 15 hours times 3,300 watts is 49,500 watts. It costs more to heat up with 110 volts period !! Remember same watts per hour but it takes 2 to 3 times longer.....
If you want to get technical:
Watts = amps x volts
So, say your average 220v outlet draws 15 amps and your average 110v outlet draws 30 amps.
220 volts x 15 amps = 3,300 watts
110 volts x 30 amps = 3,300 watts
As they always say, "it's the same difference."
"your average 110v outlet draws 30 amps"
NOT!!!
Living in Montreal, Quebec, I wasn't sure if it was a good thing for me to choose a 110 volt hot tub. After reading your hub, I think I will go buy it this week-end!
Thank you for your fantastic hub! Everything that I needed to know is there.
I'm living in Germany right now, but plan to go back to the US, probably South Carolina. Suggestions for what kind of hot tub to purchase that will work in both locations?
One needs to bear in mind when deciding on 120V or 220V is the wattage rating of the heater in the tub, most tubs that have configurable power option on the control board have a much higher watt rating on the heating element and draw much more current in the 220V configuration. Also some control boards multitask much better in 220V configuration because it does not need to shed power to make other feature work. Enjoy your tub!!!
Is it ok to run ur 220v hot tub 24/7 365 a yr ,, temp here range from 100 in the summer to -20 in the winter my hot tub is on a concrete deck outside the sun room
thanks
But a smaller tub - say 300gal - would heat up with 110 just as fast as a larger tub - 600 gal - with 220, Right?
The power consumption works like this:
If you connect the same resistance motor to 120V and then to 240V circuit, the 240v set up gives you 4 times the wattage as does the 120v set-up. This means that the 120v set-up will have to run 4 times longer to heat the water to the same temperature but in the end, they consume the same amount of KW-hrs and that's what you get charged for. So.....same cost but 120v takes 4-times longer to heat the water.
The technical reason for it is this: Lets say the motor resistance is, say, 240. Current (with DC circuits and I know this isn't DC but it's close) is defined as voltage/resistance. Using 240 volts and 240 resistance motor the current drawn is 1 amp.
Amps = Volts/Resistance or 1 amp = 240v/240 resistance
If you use 120 volts, the current being drawn is 0.5 amps.
0.5 Amps = 120 v/240 resistance
Since watts is volts times amps, here are the watts being delivered to the water by each system:
for 240v system: watts = Volts x Amps or 240 watts = 240v x 1 amps
for 120v system: watts = Volts x Amps or 60 watts = 120v x 0.5 amps
So.....the 240v set-up puts 240 watts into heating water but the 120v system only puts 60 watts into heating the same amount of water. So, the 240v system runs for, say, 1 hr while the 120v system has to run for 4 hours to do the same task. They both do the same task and it costs the same but the 240v system does it 4 times faster..
I live in Canada in Alberta and have a freeflow 190 gallon hot tub that works great. Its built in convertable to 220 or 110. I have it on 110 and usually go in it twice a day for 20minutes or so and it only drops 1 degree or two.
i have a dream maker eclipse it runs great untill i hit the jacuzzi button then it dumps water out of a 1 and a half hose above the pump can you tell me if it came unhooked from something or the switch is bad or
Hi; I need a therapeutic hydro massage type unit (for 1 or 2 people) for my basement, however the stairway down is narrow 29x55x82 inches. Any suggestions? Thanks
John - call DreamMaker spas directly at 888-768-6772. It does sound like something is disconnected, but they would be the best ones to help you troubleshoot your problem.
110v tubs can not stand up to northeast weather they take forever to heat up and they cost a ton of money to run in the winter. Had a dreamaker x500 it cost 100 a month to run in jan and feb dont be fooled you get what you pay for
Electricity is sold by the kilowatt-hour, not by the watt. It takes the same amount of energy (KWH)to heat a given amount of water, regardless of whether it is being done with 110V or 220V power. BUT the rate at which heat will be delivered to the water (i.e. the power) goes up with the square of the voltage (basic math of electricity), and this is why it will take the 120 V system four times longer to heat the hot tub as compared with the 240 V circuit. There would be a little bit of a complication in reality due to the fact that the hot tub is losing heat while you are heating it up, and in extreme cold weather the 120 V circuit may have a harder time heating up the water as fast as heat is being lost, and so rather than taking four times as long as the 220 V circuit, it could take even longer. Tip: If you are able to do the initial fill of your tub with hot water (or even partly hot water), you will get to your desired temperature much sooner than if you start with cold tap water.
Great commentary and very informative! I was wondering if I can get your recommendations on 110v vs. 220v for Palm Springs. The lows year round stay between 45 degrees (winter) and 75 degrees (summer). Due to space constraints I would be looking at a unit that can seat 4 at maximum. I'm assuming a 110v would be more than sufficient but just wanted to get your take on SoCal climates. Thanks!
The main difference is that 220V spas heat the water faster, therefore the running time of the heater is generally less than 110V and will use less electricity.
Unfortunately, 220V spas are generally more expensive and if you don't have the 220V line already, you need to hire an electrician to run it for you which is fairly costly.
As for the climate in SoCal, no problem. DreamMaker sells thousands of tubs in Canada each year. There's no reason a 110V spa wouldn't work perfectly fine in your climate.
spa guy 3 years ago
For 110v hot tubs, running seperate lines for the heater and jet pumps will do away with the shared power problem